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Cruising Thailand

As a cruising destination, Thailand's hit list is impressive; wonderful anchorages, spectacular beaches, impressive landscapes, friendly people and great weather. And I haven’t even mentioned the food. A visit to any Thai market will leave your senses in a state of ecstasy, the smell of fresh mango, smoked fish and spices, mixed with huge bouquets of freshly cut flowers, piles of bright red chillies and tomatoes and little bags of sauces known only to the locals. How the Thais would be appalled at our chilled, supermarket offerings and jars of glutinous sauces.

We were full of excitement as we set sail from Malaysia's Langkawi Island for the 120-mile cruise to Phuket. Our first stop was only a four-mile hop across the border to Tarutao. This densely forested island was formerly a penal colony, with crocodiles acting as the guards. Despite being informed that the crocodile population had been disbanded, our eyes were peeled as we took our dinghy up the mangrove creek to visit the ‘must see’ limestone Crocodile Cave. In fact, we never found the caves, we were so concerned about ever finding our way out again, equipped as we were with Ritz crackers, an undersized outboard and a turning tide, the caves became an adventure too far.

Cruising in Tonga Apart from the whales, wonderful sailing, friendly locals and great weather.. more...

The Society Islands An air of fantasy hovers over the French Society Islands.. more...

The Panama Canal An imposing gateway between the Atlantic and the Pacific. more...

Cruising the Arctic My mind toyed with images of frozen tundra, freezing winds, boat crushing ice.. more...

As with so many places in South West Thailand, we were alone in the Tarutao anchorage, swinging gently above white sand. Our only visitors being the local fishermen, offering us cuttlefish in return for English conversation and magazines. Ashore there was fledgling tourism attracting a few hardy families, including an English couple with three children under 10. The attraction was spotless, people free beaches, a few tents hidden amongst trees, jungle walks and a tiny shop offering loo roll and long life sustenance.

We set off north for a pit stop in the Rok Islands. The attraction of visiting the evocatively sounding Rok Nok was not disappointing with great diving and drift snorkelling between the two small islands. Our cruising guide boasted moorings amidst the reef, but in reality most of these were not for yachts. Even with our relatively shoal 1.6m draft we soon found ourselves hovering millimetres above the coral with the tide ebbing, it took a boat hook and some careful shoving to guide us off our ‘safe’ mooring, no thanks to the marine authorities who laid them.

Lanta Island was our first stop since Malaysia where we found company. Tourism has arrived in this fast developing island, with high-speed ferries regularly exchanging tourists from Krabi and Koh Phi Phi. After a few weeks of solitude we were ready to pounce on the internet cafes, enjoy the restaurants, ride on the tuk tuks and refill our stores with various locally grown fruit and vegetables. Happily we stayed away from the places beckoning us in with the latest live European football matches.

Lakes, waterfalls, creeks and coves...

With Phuket less than 50 miles away, we soon found ourselves being sucked northwards like moths to bright lights. We veered towards Koh Phi Phi, but taking one look at the quantity of ferries, cruise ships and tourist boats humming around the main harbour, we turned our yacht and high tailed it away, hopping between anchorages each more beautiful than the next, but swamped by long tail tourist boats filling the beachfront and providing plenty of roll as they darted back and forth.

To regain the secluded Thailand feel again, we decided to head into Phang Nga Bay, between Phuket and the mainland. The sheer sided mountains that rise out of the Bay make this truly one of the most spectacular bays we have ever visited. The whole area is dotted with dinghy adventures. Deep limestone caves, tunnels leading to inlands lakes, waterfalls, creeks and coves, vast cliffs with craggy fingers of rock hanging down to the water, secret beaches and dense fringing jungle.

Threatened with a possible typhoon...

Looking at the chart of Phang Nga Bay, it is a question of deciding what the weather is doing and choosing a promising spot, only a few of the possible anchorages are listed in the cruising guides. One evening we were threatened with a possible typhoon, the VHF was filled with panic. We hid amongst towering cliffs and watched as the sky turned crimson, orange and pink. We discussed laying more anchors as barely a zephyr stirred the waters. We abandoned our anchor watch and went to sleep as the moon rose casting a comforting silver ladder across the still water, another perfect night’s cruising in Thailand.

The next morning we decided the bright lights of Phuket could wait another day, or two. Even the promise of giant satellite screens belting out football commentary could not tempt us away from the dreamy panorama of Phang Nga Bay.