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Cruising with Whales in Tonga
 

Vava'u Group
Between May and November, Humpback whales migrate to the warm waters of the Vava’u Group in northern Tonga to mate and calve. This annual visit coincides with the arrival of the cruising yachts, hitching a lift on the Pacific tradewinds from America to Australia and New Zealand.

Protected from the ocean swell and westerly currents this horseshoe of over 40 islands is a sailor’s paradise. Linked by a network of navigable waterways it offers exhilarating sailing in steady winds and flat seas. The islands are not without their hazards, mainly fringing reef and sand spits, but as they are so well charted, thanks to resident charter companies Moorings and Sunsail, this just adds to the wonderful snorkelling, beachcombing and diving options.

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Tongan Feasts
Apart from the whales, wonderful sailing, friendly locals and good weather, there are other reasons to visit Tonga around this time. Food is one. Feasting is something the Tongans do well and, luckily for us, our cruise in Tongan waters coincided with the King’s visit. Tonga is the oldest and last remaining Polynesian monarchy and the only Pacific nation never brought under foreign rule. The King is a huge fellow with a huge penchant for feasts. We joined 1,000 of the King’s closest friends on the Neiafu school playing field for the meal. Sitting cross-legged under groaning tables, we soon learnt why the King had struggled with a weight problem for so many years. Fresh fish, suckling pig, starchy yam and taro, envelopes of spicy lamb, noodles and chicken, sticky ginger cake and fruit. It was a meal to remember.

Snorkelling with a Humpback
That evening, as we returned with our distended bellies to our evening anchorage, the whales reappeared ahead of us. I reached for my snorkel and fins, instinctively knowing that they would not threaten me. As I slipped into the water, the whales disappeared and seemed to wait in the stillness. I paddled to where they had been and stared into the deep, as a confused collection of flecks became the outline of a huge humpback whale head. Beneath her, the smaller figure of her calf, only weeks old, but already the size of a minibus. She urges the calf to the surface to breath and the calf and I swim together for nearly an hour, an encounter of unforgettable trust and curiosity. I know that I will never relive such an extraordinary experience again, but if any one ever mentions Tonga, I will never forget.

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